Pattern Review: Kwik Sew 4155 Shirt Dress


Pattern Description: From the KS website: “Dresses have fitted bodice with front and back princess seams, armholes are finished with facings, front placket with button closures and waist seam. Flared skirt has side-front and side-back seams with side seam pockets. A: Collar with collar stand. B: Collar stand.”

I made view A.

Sizing: XS to XL. I made a Medium.

Available as a PDF? No

Fabric Used: Lightweight Cotton “Oxford” in Infinity Blue from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course!)

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2130 sewing machine, Juki MD654DE serger, Naomi the Naomoto

Needle/Notions Used: Universal 70/10 needle, Pro-Weft Supreme Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, 9 Buttons, thread.

Tips Used during Construction: And Now, a Word from the Pressinatrix, Clip the Selvages Before Laying Out Your Pattern, Sew from Wide to Narrow

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? They were good. I would do things differently from the instructions on future versions (see Likes/Dislikes for details), but they were quite thorough.

Construction Notes: I made a muslin to check the fit. As I have found with many Kwik Sew patterns, this has a ton of excess ease in the chest area, and I had pretty major gaposis around the armholes. I took about 3 inches (!) of excess ease out by adjusting the princess lines. I could have removed about an inch more without suffering any ill effects. I did an FBA, and I adjusted the armhole facings to match the new gap-reduced bodice.

Because of the FBA, I re-positioned the buttons. I only used 9 buttons, and I put a skirt hook/eye at the waist on the button placket. I will wear this with a belt, so that gives a smoother line.

Kwik Sew’s instructions have you sew the collar stand to the wrong side of the bodice neckline, then turn the seam allowance on the outer side of the collar under and machine stitch through all layers. Instead, I attached the collar stand to the bodice on the right side, and I hand-stitched the inside of the collar to the bodice on the wrong side. After that I machine stitched around the edges. I find that’s a better way to ensure that your collar looks good.

I also added a bar tack on the side seams at the bottom of the pockets, for reinforcement.

To give it a little more security.

Here are a couple of shots of the in-process bodice…

Bodice Front before attaching skirt
And Back

Likes/Dislikes: I like very much the way this pattern is drafted, and I like the lines. I am not that crazy about their order of construction. They have you construct the bodice, along with the button plackets, then construct the skirt, with the button plackets. I found that it’s very easy to slightly mis-align the plackets at the waistline. That happened with mine. It’s hidden by a belt, and even if it wasn’t, you’d have to get close to see it, but I know it’s there. In the future. I would sew the bodice fronts/backs together, sew the skirt fronts/backs together, attach them at the waist, sew the button plackets together and attach them in one piece. Even better, I would re-draft the plackets to be a single piece running from the neckline to the hem. Then I would attach the collar.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I would do it again, and I do recommend it. I really like the way this looks. I was inspired to make this because of the McCalls Patterns Shirtdress Sew Along. I’m not usually a sew along kind of gal, and in fact I had to have this done before the sew along ends, because I wore it to DS the Younger’s graduation from high school today! I finished it at 11:30 this morning, and the graduation started at 2 this afternoon.

Here’s a picture of the front on Shelley:

And… gasp! A shot actually on me!

Proud Mama Moment!

Conclusion: I really, really like this pattern. I can see making this in a piqué for a dressier look, or a lightweight denim. Do make sure to make a muslin, since it does have (for me) a lot of extra ease. It’s really comfortable, and it goes together quickly. All in all it’s a winner.

Now it’s time to take the graduate out for a celebratory dinner. Happy sewing!

Pattern Review: New Look 6428 Knit Dress

Update on May 23, 2016 It was a warm day today, so I said, “What the heck!” and wore my dress. I got three compliments on it. One from DS the Younger (“Nice dress, Mom”), one from DH (“Nice dress! When did you get that?” “I made it yesterday.” “Wow, really? Nice!”) and one from the young woman working the cashier at the grocery store when I stopped there after work (“I really like your dress!”) I’d say this pattern is a real winner!

Good luck finding this if you don't have the link. Simplicity's new website sucks.
Pattern Description: From Simplicity’s website, “ These preppy Just 4 Knits dresses for miss are easy to sew and figure flattering for comfortable stylish wear. Dress can be long sleeve or sleeveless with round or notched neckline. New Look sewing pattern.

Sizing: 8-10. I started with a 12 at the shoulders, and tapered out to a 16 at the bust (to avoid doing a FBA). Then I made a 14 everywhere else.

Available as a PDF? No

Fabric Used: Lightweight Athleisure Cotton Jersey in Heathered Black/White from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course!).

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2130 home sewing machine, Juki MD654DE home serger, Naomi the Naomoto, sleeve board, ham.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needles, lightweight mesh invisible zipper from Botani in New York, Pro-Tricot interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (BTW, in case you need interfacing, Pam is having a big sale through Wednesday, May 25. NAYY, just a good friend and happy customer), thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Check the Grain on Knits, Tips and Tricks for Sewing with Knits, And Now, a Word from the Pressinatrix.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? Good. Basic, but understandable. This is a well-drafted pattern and it goes together easily. For inserting an invisible zipper, I prefer Els’ instructions from The Sewing Divas.

Construction Notes: I serged all major seams except the CB, which I sewed with the Pfaff. I serged the edges of the CB seam, catching the edges of the zipper. I also serged the raw edges of the facings.

Zipper and facing finishes

I lowered the side bust dart one inch.

The original dart point was 9 1/2 inches down from the shoulder.

Since this is going to be a weekend dress/beach coverup for summer, I didn’t bother doing a ton of fitting. I applied scraps of interfacing at the back shoulder seamlines before stitching to stabilize them. I undertstitched all the facings, and I stitched in the ditch along the seam lines and neckline darts to affix the facings. They still have a tendency to roll out, so I may tack them in several other places as well.

Likes/Dislikes: This is a really cute dress for casual wear. As I say, this is for my summer weekends and I’ll wear it over a bathing suit at the beach. It reminds me of an independent pattern that I have seen, but it was a fraction of the cost and I like the neckline darts and the CB seam that gives you the ability to fit it easily.

Closeup so you can see the neckline dart

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes I would do both. I am tempted to make this in the sleeved version. The fabric I used has some stretch, but I think that if you use a fabric with a lot of stretch you can eliminate the invisible zipper. In fact, if I make it again, I’ll probably eliminate the zipper, sew the CB seam up to a few inches below the top, and add a button/loop closure so I can just pull it over my head.

Conclusion: Cute dress! I was able to make it from start to finish in less than one day (today). I definitely recommend it. Here are shots on Shelley:

Front…
… and back!

Also this weekend, I made myself another StyleArc Alannah Tee. This one took me less than 2 hours yesterday from start to finish. I don’t have much to say beyond what I said in my first review of this shirt. I made this one with Designer Viscose Jersey in Cashmere Rose. I love it – it’s so comfortable! I’m wearing it now. Here’s a shot on Shelley yesterday:

Alanna3

On top of all that, we got the tomatoes planted, put the kids’ old bunk beds up on Craigslist, got DS the Younger a bicycle to take to college, swam Hoover and cleaned up a good chunk of the house. Dang, what a productive weekend!

Happy sewing!

 

Pattern Review: Vogue 1374 Badgley Mischa Gown


Pattern Description: Close-fitting, lined, pullover dress has bias neck binding, shoulder yokes, back pleated drape with weighted tab, back extending into fish tail hemline.

Sizing: 6-22. I made a 14

Available as a PDF? No

Fabric Used: Sequined Designer Mesh – Gunmetal for the outer shell, Tricot Mesh Lining – Black (sold out, sorry) for the lining, and scraps of Swiss 4-Way Stretch – Black for bindings. All are from Gorgeous Fabrics, naturally.

Machines and Tools Used: Juki DDL8700 industrial machine, Juki MO2516N industrial serger, Reliable 3000IS iron/board, sleeve board, shoulder stand, ham, silk organza press cloth.

Needle/Notions Used: Universal 70/10, Serger 75/11 needles, thread, pennies

Tips Used during Construction: Tips and Hints for Working with Sequins, Make the Lining First, And Now, a Word from the Pressinatrix, Fear Not the Fabric

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? They were very good. This pattern is not difficult to construct, so I didn’t really need them.

Construction Notes: I made this dress for a photo shoot, so I made it straight from the envelope with no fitting adjustments. What a luxury! Because of that, I got to see how it sews up with no modifications, and it goes together beautifully. The upper back piece was a little longer than the lower back, which I discovered when I made the lining.

I took about 1/4 inch off the upper back at the CB fold when I made the sequined outer shell, and that seemed to fix the problem. I bound the armholes with Swiss 4-way Knit to protect the wearer’s skin.

This is better than tricot for protecting from irritation

I used two pennies as weights in the back cowl.

Just adding my two cents’ worth…
ba dum boom!

The toughest part of this was just psyching myself up to cut into the sequins. But once I started cutting, it went very smoothly. If you work with sequined fabric, I recommend using a rotary cutter with a fresh blade, and resigning yourself to the fact that your blade will go straight to the recycle bin after you finish.

Likes/Dislikes: This is a very straightforward pattern that leaves the wow factor to the fabric. It’s rated Average by Vogue, but I think it’s easy, if you use a plain knit. I think this would also look great cut to knee length, either in a sequined fabric like this, or even in a plain knit. It’s got that “business in the front/party in the back” vibe that you can exploit with a less showy fabric. Ooo, you know what else would be cool? To make it in a subdued fabric for the majority of it, but use just one blingy or beaded piece for the upper back and let it peek out. Kind of like what I did on the bodice of my Pippa Dress. How fun would that be???

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes and yes. I would probably make this in a less showy fabric for myself to wear.

Conclusion: This is a spectacular dress, if I do say. The pattern goes together beautifully. I love the subtle sexiness of the design.

Front
Side
Back
Sexy!

This dress will be used in a photo shoot (on a mannequin), then I am going to donate it to the Cinderella Project at my local high school. Hopefully some young lady will like it and will feel like a million dollars at prom this year.

Happy sewing!

Pattern Review: McCalls 6074 Maxi Dress

When I went to save the pictures of this project, my computer reminded me that I had Already Made This Dress. The pattern is nowhere in my stash, so it probably got recycled at some point in the last 5+ years. Anyway, here’s a fresh review.


Pattern Description: MISSES’ DRESSES IN THREE LENGTHS: Pullover dresses A, B, C, D have front elastic casing detail, deep V-neck, flare skirt and stitch hems; dress A has purchased iron-on trim; dress B has contrast hem band; dress D has cap sleeve; dresses A, B lengths are 2″ above mid-knee; dress C is evening length; dress D length is 2″ above ankle.Sizing: 6-22. I made a 12

Available as a PDF? Yes

Fabric Used: A sold out ITY Jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course!). There are lots of other ITY jerseys that would work. You can see them Here

Machines and Tools Used: Juki home serger, Pfaff 2130.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needle, thread, scraps of interfacing and 1/2 inch elastic.

Tips Used during Construction: Tips and Tricks for Sewing With Knits, Anything by The Pressinatrix.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? Fine. This is an easy-peasy pattern, and it went together quickly.

Construction Notes: In my previous review, I noted that the bust point was pretty high. This time I measured it, and it’s a ridiculous 9 inches from the shoulder seam! Whoa. That’s just nuts. So be prepared to lower the bust point. I also did an FBA. As I said before, this runs pretty large, so don’t hesitate to go down from your regular size. I should have remembered to use a size 10, but 12 is close enough.

The maxi version is REALLY long. I lopped off about 5 inches. If you’re my height (5 feet 6 inches) or shorter, you can probably cut it at the length for View D and still end up with a maxi.

Likes/Dislikes: This is an easy, easy-to-wear, classic pattern, as evidenced by the fact it’s been in the catalog for at least 5 years. It gives good results in a short time. Other than the bust point being too high, I don’t dislike anything about it.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Clearly I would do it again, and I do recommend it. I know it’s a strange thing to make on the coldest day of 2016 (so far) here in Boston, but I wanted to make something to remind myself that spring is coming and this did the trick nicely.

Conclusion: Nice, easy pattern. Easy to make and easy to wear. I’ll get pictures on me when the weather warms up. In the meantime, here are some on Shelley:

Front
Front
Back
Back
6074 Maxi Detail
Detail showing the gathering

Happy sewing!

New Year Pattern/Fabric Picks

Happy New Year! I took December off from doing a fabric/pattern pairings, but now that the holidays are over, let’s start up again! We have some great new fabrics for your late winter/early spring wardrobing (and summer into fall if you’re one of our friends Down Under).

HP-Brushstrokes
Here’s one that I’m particularly excited about. The dress that started it all! That’s right, almost 9 years ago, I made a HotPatterns Cosmopolitan Dress from an ITY jersey, and that was the fabric that started this whole wonderful adventure! HotPatterns just did a limited re-issue of the pattern, and I adore it with this Brush Strokes ITY Jersey. It’s also available in a Red Colorway, if you prefer warmer tones. Either way, it’s a winner!

Ginger 11251
I just love jeans; they are my uniform at Gorgeous Fabrics Galactic Headquarters. And a pattern that has been made by many of our customers with phenomenal success is Closet Case Files’ Ginger Jeans. It’s a flattering pattern on so many different figures! Give it a feminine and fun flare with our Lovely Leaves Stretch Cotton Twill. You can wear it now right into the warmer weather!

Kendall_11202_11203
One of my absolute favorite fabrics, regardless of the time of year, is rayon jersey. We’ve received a shipment of the most beautiful, vibrant colors imaginable! I think any of them will look spectacular paired with StyleArc’s Kendall Top. With Valentine’s Day approaching, pair it with our Rumba Red. For a gorgeous color that suits just about any complexion, you can make it with our Lake Blue. Check the Solid Jerseys page to see the rainbow of colors we have available for you!

V9172_11257
I almost passed by Vogue 9172 Skirt in the latest collection, but then I noticed the lines and it is Gorgeous! Its deceptively simple, but has some design features that give the fabric center stage. They recommend a knit with some substance. This would look brilliant made up in our Diamond Life Matellasse Knit. It’s comfortable, washable, travels beautifully and wears like iron!

I hope you enjoy these fabric and pattern combinations as much as I enjoy putting them together for you. Hopefully this gives you inspiration and ideas, and tempts you to check out all of our Gorgeous Fabrics. 🙂

Happy sewing!

Favorite Garments of 2015

I’m Not Generally One for Looking Back on the year past, but 2015 was a good year for things in my wardrobe that I just love, so here are my top 6. Yeah, I know – “What? Top 6? I thought it was Top 5?” What can I say? I’m a rebel. From number 6 favorite to number 1, these are the garments that I pull out of my closet or bureau and feel great wearing:

Number 6: Another Karen Short
Karen 3 On Me
It was a toss-up between these shorts and my Modified Kwik Sew Duster (okay, yes, I cheated and it’s technically 7 winners, but indulge me). The reason this one made the list is because I wore these incessantly from when I pulled them off the ironing board until the cold weather hit. That was about a two week span, here in Boston, so I am sure they will get lots of wear next summer. Plus I got some very good feedback on this pattern that helped me make the second one better. Thanks GOMI!

Number 5: Liesl & Company’s Maritime Top

Front
Front

Surprised by this? I am. When I made this top, I was unsure of it. It didn’t fit the ‘fit profile’ I was searching for at the time. But I thought it would be nice to do a compare/contrast between indie and big 4 Breton-style tops. Well. Over the months, this gets pulled out and worn on a very regular basis. So it’s a winner, and I will definitely make some more.

Number 4: Another StyleArc Kate Dress

Front
Front

After 2014’s Wrapapalooza, you might think I’d be tired of wrap dresses. Nope! Love them still, and this Kate Dress from StyleArc is one of my favorites!

Number 3: Sex and Drugs and Rock and Roll Dress
6838 v2 Front
You know, I don’t buy from other fabric stores often, but when I do, it’s spectacular fabric that I can’t lay my hands on. I have worn this dress three times so far this year, and every time I get stopped by people asking me where they can buy it. It’s a testament to this dress and fabric that I’m going to wear it tomorrow night to ring in the New Year.

Number 2: Paco Peralta’s Cassock Coat
Finished Front

If a piece of clothing could be the Perfect Man, this would be it. This coat is so beautifully drafted, yet so simple, that it sets off the wearer (that would be me) beautifully. It inspired DH to buy me a vintage Hermès “Petite Mains” scarf for Christmas to go with it (love that man!!). Paco – your designs are GORGEOUS!

Number 1: The Wedding Gown Refactor
I Would Do it Again in a Heartbeat
This year, I took a Princess-Di-inspired wedding confection and turned it into a sleek sheath dress for my 30th wedding anniversary dinner. I married the perfect man, and I wore the perfect dress then and gave it new meaning for now.

Have a safe, happy and wonderful New Year, everyone!

Snatching Victory from the Jaws of Defeat – Kwik Sew 2948 Cardigan (modified)

After the debacle that was the no-Named pattern, I fell back and punted. Sewsy, bless her, suggested a couple of Kwik Sew Patterns, one of which, K2948, I had in my pattern stash and had even traced off in a size medium. Cue the happy dance!

The website says out of stock; I’ve heard rumors it is out of print. Not sure if that is correct.

I made this pattern years and years ago, in a very different type of knit (much lighter weight), so here’s a new review.
Pattern Description: Misses’ fitted cardigans and tops. The cardigan has long sleeves and a front band with a buttonhole and button closure. View A has a self fabric belt. The View A pull-over top has a stand-up collar and hemmed armholes. The View B pull-over top has a boat neckline and the neckline and armholes are hemmed.

I made the (even) long(er) cardigan, sans the belt.

Sizing: XS to XL. I made a medium.

Available as a PDF? No.

Fabric Used: Chunky Ribbed Italian Sweater Knit in Ivory/Taupe. I just love this knit. It’s so warm and cozy. It doesn’t photograph nearly as beautiful as it is IRL. The texture is something you need to see in person.

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2130 Sewing Machine, Juki MO-654DE serger, Naomi the Naomoto/board, shoulder stand, sleeve board, silk organza press cloth.

Needle/Notions Used: Ball Point 70/10 needle for the seams, 90/14 for attaching the neck band to the garment (thick fabric!), Stretch 75/11 needles in the serger to finish the seams. Scraps of Pro-Weft Interfacing, buttons that I bought at JoAnn, thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Masking Tape to Mark Notches, Sewing with Knits, And Now, A Word from the Pressinatrix, How to Flat-Set a Sleeve.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes, with modifications

How were the instructions? I didn’t need them – I’ve made this before, and the pattern goes together very easily for anyone who’s been sewing for a little while.

Construction Notes:  Because of the thickness of the fabric, I used a single layer layout,. The back piece is cut on the fold, so I made a new pattern piece with muslin.

With a thick knit like this, I find it easier to use shears to cut the fabric

I added about 24 inches in length to the pattern. Also, since this knit is very thick I made the seam allowances 5/8″ (the pattern calls for 1/4″ SAs). I used a straight stitch, 3.0mm length, and I finished the seams with a 4-thread serger stitch.

Finishes on the seams and the neckband

I stabilized the shoulders with scraps of interfacing

I used masking tape to mark the notches

That’s a single notch at the side seam

I used 3 inch hems, and I hand-hemmed them with a catch stitch.

And finally, because this knit is so thick, I used a toothpick to give the right depth to the button. I made a thread shank with waxed thread.

Gives enough room so the thread won’t break

To me, the toughest part was trying to keep the pattern pieces on the ribs. It didn’t work out as well as I would like on the bands, but the rest of the garment turned out okay. And honestly, this isn’t one of my couture garments, and I luuuuuurve the fabric, finicky nature and all, so I’ll live with it.

Likes/Dislikes: This is so warm and comfy! No dislikes.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes and yes. I will definitely make the shorter version of this again, and I do recommend it.

Conclusion: Big thanks to Sewsy for reminding me about this pattern! It’s comfortable and just what I wanted for this look. I will wear it with a belt. The belts I have are not the right color, but here are a few pictures on Shelley to give you a feel for how I will style it.

All by itself (front)
And the back

Here’s a “sample” belt. I’ll see if I can find something that matches better this week.

And jeans, and boots

Happy sewing!

Ann’s Fabric/Pattern Picks To Click, November Edition

People really seemed to like the fabric/pattern combination post and email I did a couple of weeks ago. I’m so glad! I’m going to make it a regular feature of the Gorgeous Fabrics emails. I’m not sure if I’ll post here each time I send the emails out. Let me know if you think I should, would you please? Thanks! Anyway, on to the subject at hand, here are…

Today’s Picks to Click.

Our love affair with the wrap dress is still going strong. And with Thanksgiving right around the corner, a wrap dress is an elegant, comfortable option for dressing up. For a graphic stunner, pair our Computer Printed 4-Way Jersey with Cashmerette’s Appleton Dress. The graphic print is great for every figure and the wrap style looks great on everyone.
10975-Appleton

During winter, I like to wear blouses under sweaters and jackets. It’s a nice way to add polish to my office-standard jeans. One top that I just love is Maria Denmark’s Edith Blouse. It’s got a nice open neckline that will highlight jewelry or a scarf. This will pair beautifully with our Sassy Stripes Stretch Cotton for a top you can wear all year round.
CST11105-MDEdith

Jumpsuits are still making a strong presence on runways and in stores right now. McCalls just came out with one that you can dress up or down. Try pairing McCalls 7292 with our Rayon Twill Challis in Navy Blue. And if you want to dress it up for the holidays, make the sleeves with our NY Designer Wide Matte Scalloped Corded Lace, also in Navy Blue.
RCH7292LAC

Another great favorite to toss on during the winter months is a duster-style cardigan. We’ve got some spectacular Italian sweater knits in stock right now. You will be chic and toasty in our Really Wide! Nubby Italian Sweater Knit – Beige Tones. It will work beautifully as Jamie Christina’s Lark and it will take you from winter right into spring.
10947Lark

Aaaaand, like most fashion shows, I’ll close this letter out with a real showstopper! The holiday party/gala/dress-up season is almost upon us, and what better way to make an entrance than in this spectacular gown, Vogue 1475 by Badgley Mischka done up in our What’s New Kitty Kat Square Sequins Mesh – Gold Tones! You will guarantee that every eye will be on you. And that’s a good thing.
9594V1475

And In Other News
Don’t forget, tomorrow morning I’ll draw three winners in the Pantone Deck Giveaway. If you want to be entered into the drawing, leave a comment on that post and good luck!

I just found out that Ellen March, the editor of Sew News, is battling breast cancer. Ellen is very young, with three young children. Please keep her in your thoughts. There is a GoFundMe account set up to help defray the costs of her care. If you wish to contribute you can do so Here.

Yesterday, I saw my oncologist. I will reach my 6 year anniversary of my own diagnosis of breast cancer this December. Everything looks great, and all my blood work continues to come back normal. Here’s hoping!

Thank you to everyone for your kind words about my singing. It felt great to be on stage again. I’m going to try to do more soon!

Next on the cutting table is a long cardigan made with a modified version of Kwik Sew 2948 and my Italian ribbed knit. I’m hoping to have most of that done this weekend. Stay tuned.

Happy sewing!

Dear Independent Pattern Companies…

I really want to like you. Really I do. But you are making it so. Difficult.

I decided to make myself a cardigan, and I saw a pattern that I thought would work really well for my needs. This particular pattern is available as both a PDF and as a printed pattern. I have a severe allergy to printing and taping patterns. My sewing time is worth more than that, so I ordered the printed pattern. €25.00 later and about a week-and-a-half in transit, my pattern arrived. This weekend I opened it up and…

Named Esme Sheet
RUFKM?

What is one thing that pisses me off above all else? I’ll give you a hint: paying a lot of money for a pattern that is so lazily printed that I am obliged to trace it off. When I pay a premium for a printed pattern, I do NOT want to have to trace it. That’s just shoddy business practices. If I wanted to trace off my pattern I would buy a Burda magazine and save about $17.

Oh yes, and then I have to add seam allowances. That’s not a mortal sin, but it is an added annoyance when I am already highly annoyed.

Then there is the matter of ease. I’m fortunate that a sewing friend warned me on Facebook that she had issues with patterns from this company, so I made a muslin. 11 inches of ease at that bust? 17 at the waist? 5 at the biceps? And shoulders that hang off my (linebacker) shoulders by more than 3 inches? That’s not oversized and loose-fitting, that’s sloppy, and I don’t do sloppy. Had I dived right in with my Italian wool, as I originally thought I might, you would be able to hear me cursing from here.

So here’s where it stands. I’m dropping back and punting. I’m looking at StyleArc, Burda and Lekala to see if I can find something suitable for my fabric. Sigh. What a disappointment.

Anyone want a free pattern?

Amuse-bouche: StyleArc Marlo v.2

I wanted to something lighter for my post-Paco-Peralta-Cassock-Coat project, and I love the first version I made of the StyleArc Marlo, so I decided to make another. This time I decided to make it from Boldly Go Floral Silk/Rayon Matte Jersey, with contrast sleeves made from Poly ITY Jersey – Beyond Basic Black. Hey – check it out – both of those fabrics are still available – it’s a miracle!!! 🙂

I was inspired by ReDpants Designs‘ wrap dress from when she hosted McCalls’ wrap dress sew along last year. And my friend and client Karen also used the same combination in a Fabulous Maxi Dress.

This time, I cut the front in two pieces, per the StyleArc instructions. I tried, and almost succeeded, to have the print match exactly across the front. It’s close enough that most people won’t notice, and it’s not far enough off to make my eye twitch.

For the technical details, I ran this up on my home Pfaff 2130 and my home Juki serger. I used Stretch 75/11 needles in both machines. I used a 2.5mm long by .5mm wide stitch for the CF and front sleeve/bodice seams. I used that same stitch to hem the garment and sleeves, and I used a 3.5 mm 4-thread serger stitch for the side seams.

All in all, this took about 1.5 hours from start to finish over the course of several days. I’m really pleased with this version. DH really loves it. The fabric and contrast make a nice change, and each takes less than a yard of fabric so if you have pieces left over from other projects, this is a nice way to use them up.

Here are some pictures on Shelley.

Marlo 2 Front

 

Marlo 2 Back

Once more, this is a great pattern with good bones that makes up quickly. Not sure what my next project will be. I’ll see what inspiration hits this week when I go on a buying trip.

Happy sewing!