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Website Review: Bias Bespoke

While working on the muslin for my Vogue 2275 Yves Saint Laurent coat, I decided that I wanted to use pagoda shoulder pads. “Pagoda Shoulder Pads?” you say? “What are those?”

Excellent question. First, let’s talk pagoda shoulder. A pagoda shoulder, which is used pretty extensively in bespoke tailoring, but rarely seen in even high-end ready to wear, is a shoulder line that has a concave (curving inward toward the body) curve.

The curve is more pronounced than the picture indicates

It gives a very elegant line, and this pattern incorporates it. Yves Saint Laurent was a tailoring genius. These days, you can find this type of shoulder line in Alexander McQueen jackets. Because of the curvature, this shoulder line requires a specific type of pad designed to support the shape. You can make your own (and I have), but I got curious and decided to do a search online. Much to my delight, I found that Bias Bespoke in New York carries these shoulder pads!

Taken from their website. NAYY

A Little Back-Story

I had visited Bias Bespoke Supply Company a bit over a year ago. They don’t have a retail operation: they are essentially a costume shop, and when I got off the elevator I faced an anteroom that had costumes from “Hamilton” and “Wicked” on display. As it turns out, the owner, Mr. Artur Allakhverdyan, has been a tailor and a costume maker for several decades. As I turned right from the costumes, I faced a busy workroom where tailors, pressers and others were working away on costumes that were obviously destined for “Hamilton.”

I was a bit nonplussed, because I had read on a big sewing site that this was a retail store (WRONG!). But Mr. Allakhverdyan came over and was so gracious and talked with me and put me at ease. He told me that the shop was online only, and he gave me his card. I didn’t have any tailoring projects in the queue at the time, but I decided that when I did, I would definitely look them up.

The Site

After searching online, and realizing that Bias Bespoke had what I wanted, I put the shoulder pads in  my cart. You get a price break at 6 pairs, so I ordered 3 each of black and of white. Then I looked around the site, and I found a holy-grail item: pre-interfaced wool for under-collars. It’s expensive, but oh man, it’s good stuff! It’s sewn invisibly, not fused, so it can be manipulated beautifully. You still need to pad-stitch, of course, but this is what is used by bespoke tailors and it is good stuff!

The site has tailoring supplies, including pocketing (gold!), lots of corsetry supplies, including busks, spiral steel boning (at very good prices), buttons, hooks, including  the types that are used in Chanel-style jackets, and hook tapes, lots of petersham, petersham waist banding (!), and a limited supply of lace trims, and lots more, of course. All the items seem high quality, and the prices are competitive.

Shipping

Shipping is shipping. They use USPS priority mail to ship within the US and USPS to ship internationally.  Their shipping prices are in accordance with the cost of USPS, and anyone who b*tches about shipping costs to me is going to get dope-slapped into next week so don’t even.

That said, I ordered on Sunday and my package arrived on Tuesday. I’m thrilled with them.

Quality of the Merchandise

Fabulous. I may need to pad up the shoulder pads a bit (this is, after all, a vintage pattern from the day of big shoulders).  The under-collar fabric is also great. The hair canvas is high quality and the wool is better than most of the wools I’ve been sold for under-collars. Those are the only two products that I have ordered, but based on them I’ll order again.

Pricing

The pricing is comparable to other high-quality tailoring suppliers.

Would I Recommend This Site? Will I Use It Again?

Yes and yes!

 

Happy sewing!

 

13 thoughts on “Website Review: Bias Bespoke”

  1. joan berg says:

    Thanks for sharing this website. The best selection of leather buttons and toggles I’ve seen.

  2. Elle says:

    I’ve just gotten lost down several Bias Bespoke rabbit holes–quite a find. I’m glad you’re on the mend!

  3. Martina says:

    I’ve gotten hair canvas and shoulder pads from them…they’re Great.

    1. Reader says:

      I’ve bought basting thread, padstitched melton, body linings, sleeve linings, buttons, and chalk pencils from Bias Bespoke.

      1. Reader says:

        I took a high-end tailoring course at FIT a few years ago. We ran out of time on our jackets and needed to substitute machine padstitched melton for the undercollar (Which is acceptable; the teacher told us about observing it on a $30,000 jacket in a Fifth Avenue store, although he was shocked to see it on a coat that expensive.).

        Bias Bespoke was the only store in New York City that had it. Even Steinlauf and Stoller only had the cheap stuff, which was glued.

        The people at BB are excellent about answering questions about the products if you write them.

  4. sewsy says:

    Ok, first things’ first. Glad you’re doing better and better! Next, love the new look of the blog. Beautiful! I just the other day watched, for the second time in too many years, Susan Khalje’s Craftsy class on the Couture Dress! It was more fun watching it the second time ’round! So I appreciate your post about using couture techniques on your coat. Lastly, thanks for the link to the tailoring supply, I am in need of raglan shoulder pads for DD’s coat, and was thinking that I’d have to resort to making them myself.

  5. Raul says:

    Yes love a good supplier. We have been making these for many years using these type of shoulder pads.

  6. T. j. says:

    Thanks for this ( Bias Bespoke) terrific tip. I love your new blog site as well as your photos and tips on istagram. Cheers and all the best for a complete recovery!

  7. ritas says:

    I have used them to get all of the trimmings for a complex trench raincoat – from shell buttons and matching leather covered buckles to D rings and large hook and eye for the neckline. Also used for pants hook/eye and zippers. Overall, excellent turn around and quality.

    1. Reader says:

      Their recommendations are very helpful. So are their tips. I was just reading their suggestions for using their velvet needle board. I wish I had the $245 to buy it.

  8. Reader says:

    I’ve bought several things from Bias Bespoke over the last four or so years. I place my order and then email them for a time to pick up my items in person to avoid the shipping. Usually, my purchases are ready in 24 hours. Once or twice, I paid in cash.

    I’ve reviewed Bias Bespoke online, but certainly never said it was a retail store.

  9. Christine Taylor says:

    Thank you for providing us an interesting and informative review. I like the new blog design and am glad you are feeling better.

  10. Linda N says:

    I order from them all the time! The underlinings are AMAZING. the Italian canvas, the different horsehairs, the linings, the horn buttons. Just WONDERFUL people too!

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