Pattern Review: Vogue V1527 Paco Peralta Tuxedo Jacket

First up, I hope all my friends who celebrate it had a WONDERFUL Thanksgiving! It was delightful to have the kids home. Both our boys were off from college all week, so we got to spend lots of time with them. Last night was really wonderful, because a bunch of their friends came over and we made homemade pizzas. The house was filled with laughter and happiness.

Second, this is a long post, so grab a cuppa or a glass and settle in. And just to add the normal disclaimer, Paco is a very dear friend. I bought this pattern without any urging from him, and I get nothing from anyone for doing this review. So here we go!


Pattern Description:Β From Vogue Patterns’ website, “Semi-fitted lined jacket has princess seams, single-button closure, shawl collar, in-seam pockets, two-piece sleeves, back vent and contrast inset. Loose-fitting blouse has collar extending into tie, back yoke extending into forward shoulder seams and French cuffs. Semi-fitted skirt has back invisible zipper.”

I made the jacket- though I refer to it as the tuxedo coat.

Sizing: 4-18. I made the 12.

Available as a PDF? No

Fabric Used: Ralph Lauren Wool Double Crepe – Black for the body, Silk/Wool Satin- Black for the contrast lapels, Iridescent Rayon Twill Lining – Ruby for the lining.

BTW – we’re having a huge Moving Sale at Gorgeous Fabrics right now, and almost everything is 40% off store-wide. Just sayin’…

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2030, Reliable iron and ironing board, sleeve board, shoulder stand, ham, silk organza press cloth, clapper.

Needle/Notions Used: Buttons that my dear friend Rosie brought back from Paris for me a while back. Hair canvas interfacing that was in my stash (not sure where I got that one from, sorry), 1/2 inch Tailor’s Set-in Shoulder Pads, sleeve heads that Paco sent me ages ago, thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Pretty much anything from The Pressinatrix, Make the Lining First, Using Pins to Mark Start/Stop Points, How to Use Sleeve Heads and Chest Shields, Setting a Sleeve into an Armhole.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes!

How were the instructions? Not great: I had several issues. I’ll send this list to McCalls to let them know as well.

Problem 1: There are 8 pages of instructions. I got pages 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 and another 5/6. I didn’t get 7/8.

Whoops
Whoops

I understand from several friends who have this pattern that they had the same issue. Paco sent me a picture of the last two pages of instructions, and I’ll ask McCalls to send me a copy of the PDF so I have a complete set.

Problem 2: The instructions and pattern markings conflict on the front interfacing.

So which is it? Interface the whole front, or just interface the facing?
So which is it? Interface the whole front, or just interface the facing?

The cutting instructions tell you to interface the entire front piece. But the pattern piece, and the illustrations in steps 3 and 5 all indicate that you only interface the facings. The ultimate answer to the question, “Well, which is it?” depends on your fabric and interfacing. In my case, I knew I only wanted to interface the facing. But that’s because I know what I’m doing.

Problem 3: The instructions omit one small but potentially crucial step. After step 8, clip the seam allowance to the stitching line at the small dots and press open. If you construct the buttonholes and follow the illustrations as written you’ll block the hole.

Another whoops
Another whoops

Problem 4: The instructions don’t explicitly tell you to hem the sleeves. They have you baste the sleeves , then they tell you to attach the lining to the sleeve at the hem. Β This will give you a wibbly wobbly hem, especially after putting the jacket on and taking it off a few times. I hemmed the sleeve attaching the lining to it. Doing this will give you a crisper finish that will withstand wear and tear better.

Much as I love Vogue Patterns, I’m going to lay the blame for this at their feet. I’m pretty sure Paco didn’t write the directions, and even if he did, someone at Vogue should have caught the discrepancies before publishing them.

Construction Notes: I Made Two Fitting Muslins to get the fit the way I want. It was pretty good out of the envelope, but to make it better I did a FBA

This is a cleverly disguised princess line, so it's pretty easy to adjust
This is a cleverly disguised princess line, so it’s pretty easy to adjust

and I added about 1 inch around at the waist, sigh… Other than that, I didn’t make any major sizing changes.

I inserted sleeve heads to support the shoulder/sleeve.

Top: inside. Bottom: outside
Top: inside. Bottom: outside

After making the buttonhole, I decided that I didn’t want a small button. Rather, I wanted a statement button, so I closed up the buttonhole and I used a snap closure and stitched the button on. (Yah, I know – it’s a men’s-style close. Sue me.)

Good lord, Black is hard to photograph!
Good lord, Black is hard to photograph!

I used the smaller buttons (which fit through the buttonhole) on the sleeves. Here’s a picture of the buttons so you can see the details.

Couture Buttons!
Couture Buttons!

Likes/Dislikes: Instructions aside, I LOVE this pattern! The lines are beautiful, it makes me look long and lean. It’s fabulous. Period.

The dislike is the instructions. That’s fixable. As long as the pattern is well drafted (it is!) and the fit is reliable (it is!) you can work around the instructions.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I probably won’t do it again. How many of these does one need? But I am saving this in case I change my mind, and I DEFINITELY recommend it. This is one that will stretch your abilities and give you a beautiful result. Make a muslin, that’s my biggest recommendation.

And of course, now that I’m thinking about it, I do have a pink duchesse satin that would look fabulous in this design for Easter. Maybe with some of the silk satin left over from my Wedding Gown Refactor as the lapels. Hmmmm…

Conclusion: A great pattern. Keep in mind the instructions issues and power through and you be rewarded with a great garment! Here are pictures on Shelley. I’ll get pictures on me later this week.

Front
Front
Had to overexpose the back to get any detail, and still...
Had to overexpose the back to get any detail, and still…
Side view – love this sleeve!
Overexposed to show the seams
Overexposed to show the seams
And the subtly contrasting lining - love it!
And the subtly contrasting lining – love it!

I am so happy with this jacket! Hopefully I haven’t put you to sleep. And as a parting shot, here’s Hoover saying “I like the holiday season.”

It's a dog's life
It’s a dog’s life

Happy sewing!

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Gorgeous Fabrics

I own an online fabric store, www.GorgeousFabrics.com. The name says it all!

24 thoughts on “Pattern Review: Vogue V1527 Paco Peralta Tuxedo Jacket”

  1. It’s very disappointing that the instructions are faulty and not properly packaged. Imagine how you would feel if you’d paid full price for the pattern. Not the 1st time with Vogue patterns either.
    Makes me wonder if they actually test the pattern instructions before they publish them.

    1. This is the first truly egregious instance that I can recall, Dee. I’m not excusing it by any stretch, but I also have recently witnessed the debacle that ensued when another pattern company put out a dreadful product and then tried to gaslight people who complained about it. At least this pattern is beautifully drafted and looks as it should. I feel confident that Vogue Patterns will fix the problems with the instructions.

  2. Ann…your work and attention to detail on this coat are perfection! Thank you for the heads up regarding the instructions too. This is a jacket that you’ll be proud to wear for many occasions. And YES! please make another one. I can see this in a gorgeous brocade too!

  3. What a great service that you shared the issues you found with the instructions and your tuxedo jacket is beautiful! I can’t believe you already have your tree up, but what a scene of coziness and cheer. πŸ™‚

    1. Shams, the boys had to head back to college today, so we wanted to get the tree up before they left. It’s a family project to decorate it, and they won’t be back home until the 22nd. πŸ™‚

  4. I’ve watched this come together on Instagram, marveling as you went through each step yet knowing that you were going to have an AMAZING jacket when you finished. Thanks for sharing all of the steps and can’t wait to see it on you instead of Shelly! BTW, what’s the moving sale about? I was on the website a couple of days ago and noticed that and wanted to ask. Thanks in advance!

  5. Superb jacket Ann and thanks for the pattern review, I have printed it off and tucked it into the pattern envelope. Do you think that this pattern would look equally great if it were shortened to a regular tuxedo length or would it throw everything out of proportion ?

  6. Beautiful work as usual and you will look so elegant! I also love reading your garment construction details and you never have to worry about putting me to sleep. I’m always sorry when the read is over! (And Hoover looks like such a sweet dog)

  7. Thanks for your extensive review of this fabulous jacket/coat and all the faulty instructions. I was thrilled when Paco signed on with Vogue Patterns and have purchased his other pattern offered through them. I’ll double check the instructions when I sew it and make a muslin, of course. It’s good to know that Paco’s pattern drafting is spot on.

  8. I gave this pattern a try because I loved the coat, not overly excited with the skirt. I might attemp the skirt at a later date. Right now the coat is hanging on the dress form and I am taking a hiatus until I can get the lining attachment figured out. Not very sure what my problem is but that back vent is giving me a migraine . Maybe there is a video out there somewhere that can provide assistance

    1. The vent confused me too, Mary. I realized I had it backwards – not sure if that was me or the instructions. I realized it just before I attached the lining to the hem, so I had to do some interesting pressing machinations to get it to lay the way it should. It was kind of brute force, but to quote Jim Blinn from the Jet Propulsion Lab, “Brute force is a wonderful methodology.” πŸ˜€

  9. I’ve eagerly watched this project come together on Instagram, and boy is it ever spectacular!! Lovely work, and thanks for sharing the entire process (and squiffy instructions!) with us.

  10. Beautifully wrought and I can’t wait to see it on you. Superb tailoring skills. I can’t wait to try one of Paco’s designs as well. I hope he does really well with this relationship.

  11. Lovely! I know you will enjoy it.

    I just finished a Ralph Rucci Suit (Vogue 1437, not blogged yet), and found lots of persnickety things with the instructions. It was if the copy writer and illustrator were doing two different things. To be sure, it was a difficult pattern to write up.

    Because I read the instructions 3 or 4 times before beginning and was still confused in places, I did a muslin not for fit but to figure out how it really went together. It didn’t solve all of the issues, but it helped to have my notes alongside the copy writer’s!

    (And I haven’t blogged it yet, because it will be a long one – perhaps this weekend).

  12. Ann, another beautiful garment! I am chuckling as I remember our FaceTime chat from the button store in Paris to the amusement of the owners. Hoover looks quite content as I am sure he was happy to have his entire family home! Thank you for the extensive review. I have yet to make a muslin of the cassock coat so I am way behind on Paco’s patterns. Yikes!

    1. Thanks Renee! The sleeve head has both batting and bias-cut hair canvas sewn together along one edge. Rosie brought it back from Paris for me.

  13. This long jacket or coat blew me away the minute I first saw it and your make is exquisite in both execution and fit! You also wrote a great sewing review about this legendary coat!
    I’m now making the skirt and already found another mistake in the Vogue tissue pattern. The lining pattern of the skirt is roughly 2″ shorter than it should be (as it is, the skirt will ride up without the ease pleat!). I noticed this after the lining had been sewn to the skirt waist facing, so I will have to un-stitch the whole thing and sew another lining shell to fix it (I’ll have to order it from the UK adding a 15 euro shipping cost, btw, just to guarantee it’s the same lining as used on the coat). Since I want to wear the complete set by Christmas Eve, I’ll fix it temporary, by adding a lining band to the hem of the lining (well pressed and it won’t be noticed, I hope). I’ve already notified Vogue’s CS on this matter along with the other issues we both found. I know Paco’s master pattern is correct because he has sewn the samples from his pattern. I think Vogue should really start testing the printed copies before releasing them to avoid these kind of mistakes, just saying. They are my favorite brand of patterns by far and have given me many wonderful experiences; I just hate when these things happen with their patterns.

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