Pattern Review: Butterick 5250 (OOP) High Waisted Trousers


Pattern Description: From the pattern envelope: “Misses/Misses’ Petite Pamts and Belt: Above-waist, creased pants ABC have fly front zipper and back darts. A, B front darts. C, D: front tucks. A: button trim and cuffs. B: carriers and belt.”

I made view B, but I skipped the belt and I’ll used a purchased belt instead.

Sizing: 6-22. I made a 14.

Available as a PDF? No

Fabric Used: Long since sold-out doubleknit from Gorgeous Fabrics. I think it’s a bit heavier than is optimal for this pattern, but I really wanted to make these pants and I didn’t have a lighter fabric at home when I started cutting. And it’s still fine – it’s just very warm. If you want my recommendation for current fabrics, and for what I would use if I were to make it again, I would go with this Tropical Weight Wool. That said, this fabric will make a great travel option. I have a very long trip coming up early next year, and I think these will be the pants I wear on the flight!

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2030 sewing machine, Juki MO654DE, Naomi the Naomoto, ironing board, ham, sleeve board.

There was a near tragedy today.

I was working in my sewing room at home when DH cheered for the Patriots. I spun my chair to get up and it caught on the thread-catcher on my Juki serger, which went crashing to the floor at the same time Jimmy Garoppolo went down with a shoulder injury.

😱😱😱😱😱

It was a horrifying moment on several levels.

Garoppolo is worse, but neither is good.
Garoppolo is worse, but neither is good.

The thread guide snapped, the cone holder broke and I was a panic sandwich. But like my beloved Pats (I stopped blogging about them because folks – rightly – thought it was kind of obnoxious, but I still love them, warts and all), I picked up the Juki, cannibalized a Janome serger I had as an emergency backup, super-glued the cone holder, and sent it back out onto the field. And we both finished with a win!

I know I'm fortunate, but... whew.
I know I’m fortunate, but… whew.

Please dear God, don’t let either of those things happen again any time soon.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needles, clear elastic, Pro-Weft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, Scraps of lining fabrics for the pockets, zipper, hook/bar.

Tips Used during Construction: Stabilize a Crotch Curve with Clear Elastic, Anything by the Pressinatrix, Color Code Your Thread Markers, Template for Fly Topstitching, J? or L?.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? They were very good. This is not a complex pattern, but I thought the fly-insertion directions were very clear and easy to follow.

Construction Notes: I made a muslin first, and before anything else made my usual “L” adjustment to the back crotch. I only needed to carve off a little curvature at the hip – roughly 1/2 inch on either side, and you can see it if you follow me on Instagram. Other than that it fit pretty well straight from the envelope, which was a nice surprise! The muslin was a non-stretch woven, vs the stretch that I had in the fabric I used.

Speaking of stretch, this fabric has slight stretch in the lengthwise direction, so I stayed the CB Seam with clear elastic.

I used the same Stretch 75/11 Needle to sew the elastic in the seam.
I used the same Stretch 75/11 Needle to sew the elastic in the seam.

I took a page from some designer pants I’ve seen lately and used a contrasting color zipper. Okay, necessity was the mother of invention and I didn’t have any 9-inch black zips in my stash, but I’m going to claim designer inspiration! 😂

How fun!
How fun!

I used black lightweight fabric for the pocket backs, but I used the scraps from my Simplicity 8166 for the front pockets, which won’t show. It’s just kind of nice to have these little secrets. It’s part of why I love to sew!

This is why I sew!
This is why I sew!

I finished all the seams and hems with the (thank heavens, working!) Juki serger

That Juki takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'!
That Juki takes a lickin’ and keeps on tickin’!

Finally, I made a template of the stitching for the fly topstitching. Here it is in process:

And here’s the finished product:

Kind of hard to see, but it's not too shabby!
Kind of hard to see, but it’s not too shabby!

Likes/Dislikes: I LOVE this pattern! This one may become a go-to for me. The instructions are clear, the results are good. We had some fall-like weather earlier this week, but today it’s pretty soupy so no pictures on me yet.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes, I will do it again, and I heartily recommend it.

Conclusion: Great pattern! Here it is on Shelley, including the way I’ll style it for fall.

I had to up the exposure to see it more clearly
I had to up the exposure to see it more clearly
And how I'll wear it with my Simplicity top
And how I’ll wear it with my Simplicity top

Happy sewing!

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Gorgeous Fabrics

I own an online fabric store, www.GorgeousFabrics.com. The name says it all!

6 thoughts on “Pattern Review: Butterick 5250 (OOP) High Waisted Trousers”

  1. Links for Color Code Thread Markers and Template for Fly Topstitching both lead to the thread markers. I’ll search for the template.

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