Pattern Review: McCalls 6996 Cardigan


Pattern Description: From McCalls’ website, “Close-fitting, unlined jackets have raised neckline with front or front band extending into gathered back collar, long sleeves and stitched hems. A, B: Lower back peplum and shaped front hemline. D: Self-belt”

I made View A.

Sizing: This is interesting. The website says 4-26, but the printed version I have is XS/S/M. I made Medium, which is equivalent to a 12/14. I can’t remember when exactly I purchased my copy, so they may have changed the sizing since I bought it.

Available as a PDF? Yes

Fabric Used: Designer Rayon Jersey in Steel, from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course).

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2130, Juki MO654DE, Naomi the Naomoto/ironing board, sleeve board, ham, shoulder stand.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needle, two scraps of Pro-Tricot Interfacing, selvage of silk organza, thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Tips and Tricks for Sewing With Knits, Just About Anything by The Pressinatrix, How to “Flat Set” a Sleeve.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? They were fine. I didn’t really need them. This is a pretty simple pattern to make, and it’s really well drafted and goes together beautifully.

Construction Notes: I did a couple of things differently from the instructions. Obviously, I flat-set the sleeve, instead of setting it in the round. They have you gather each center back collar pieces to a 3 1/4 inch length of purchased seam binding. Instead, I stitched the CB collar seam, then gathered that to a single 3 1/4 inch length of silk organza selvage. I prefer silk organza to seam binding for a few reasons. One, I have it lying around my sewing room all the time, so it’s essentially free. Two, it adds no bulk, and using a single piece instead of two pieces of seam binding reduces bulk even more, and three, it’s not at all itchy.

You can see the organza peeking out under the CB seam

I also stabilized the shoulders with scraps of tricot interfacing

I did narrow hems all around

Neckline Hem

Likes/Dislikes: I love the design lines: the quasi peplum

Not too peplum-y

The angled shoulder seams

And the general drape of the garment. There’s really nothing I don’t like.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Gosh yes and gosh yes! I could see making several of these, and I think they would make great holiday gifts too.

Conclusion: This pattern is a real winner! Here are pictures on Shelley. I’ll get some on me when the weather cools a bit more.

Front
and Back

My mojo is still going strong, and I’m thinking I would like to do something more along the couture lines. I have no idea what. But I’ll let you know.

In the meantime, happy sewing!

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Gorgeous Fabrics

I own an online fabric store, www.GorgeousFabrics.com. The name says it all!

7 thoughts on “Pattern Review: McCalls 6996 Cardigan”

  1. Thank you for sharing. I love your choice of fabric for its drape and color. When you stabilized the shoulder did you sew over the silk organza as you sewed the seam or did you add it later?

    1. I gathered the rayon knit to the size of the silk organza, Patrice, then I sewed them together at the seamline

  2. I’ve made this pattern twice. I like the first, love the 2nd, mostly due to fabric choices. However, I did not think to sew that back collar seam then gather – that would have been so much easier than 2 layers of gathering under the presser foot! And I set the sleeves in the round, without issue. I’m not sure if the stretchy fabric made it easy, or if the pattern really is that well drafted.

  3. Lovely in the drapey knit. I just made this, in more of a double knit and sans peplum. I find the neckline finish on mine a bit…. lacking. It wants to flip open all the time, so next time I think I’ll eliminate the gathers at the neckline and draft a wider facing…. But otherwise I’m well pleased with it too!

  4. Oh that is LOVELY. I also happen to own this pattern, and it just so happens that this evil little devil coaxed me into purchasing a lot of fabric while I had some down time at work this weekend. Perhaps I should put this on my to do list…….

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