Pattern Description: (from McCalls’ website) MISSES’/WOMEN’S DRESSES: Dresses have shoulder pads, close-fitting, bias, self-lined front bodice with gathered shoulders and right side, tucked left side, pleated drape, and stitched hems. C and D: close-fitting through hips.
I made View D, the long sleeved, straight skirt version.
Sizing: 8 to 24W. I made a 12 at the shoulders, tapering out to a 14 at the waist.
Available as a PDF? No
Fabric Used: Angular Momentum ITY Jersey – Green/Blue from Gorgeous Fabrics (naturally!)
Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff 2130, Juki 654DE, Naomi the Naomoto, Tailor’s Ham
Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needle, homemade shoulder pads from OOP Vogue 8817 Shoulder Pads pattern.
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? More or less (see below)
How were the instructions? They were fine.
Construction Notes: Okay, so, this pattern looks really cute from the pictures. But here’s the thing – the drape and draped top mean there is a LOT of fabric at one stress point. I made this from an ITY jersey, which falls well within the parameters of acceptability for weight, stretch and drape. But you have a ton of layers converging at one junction. At first I just thought it was thick, with all the layers. I didn’t count them, but there are lots:
I basted most of the seams, then I serged them. The instructions tell you to make a casing for the elastic. With all the layers, I decided instead to use the elastic insertion foot on my Juki serger to apply the elastic.
Likes/Dislikes: I like the design of this pattern, but the reality has some issues. There are a LOT of layers, when you add in the linings, drapes and skirt. There is a lot of weight on one corner of the pattern, which drags it down.
Here’s a shot of the drape:
I think to try to compensate, McCalls has you add an elastic casing. It doesn’t help. You really need a waist stay to keep the waistline where it belongs.
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I really like the basic design, but I think there are issues that make it problematic – mostly having to do with the drape pulling the waistline down. If you use a solid jersey, I would recommend forgoing the double-layer on the drape and just do a narrow hem. I need to think about what to do if you use a printed jersey.
Conclusion: An okay pattern. I was going to make the maxi version but I’m not convinced after this version. Here are pictures on Shelley