Work In Progress: Paco Peralta’s Cassock Coat

Wow, it’s been a while, hasn’t it? I’ve been really busy with work, and this weekend was a super band performance at the Salem Invitational, with DS the Younger conducting the HS band. DS the Elder came home to see it and cheer on his younger brother, so it was a great weekend with family.

In the meantime, I have been sewing, just more slowly. I’m working on Paco Peralta’s Cassock Coat. I’ll do a full review when it’s finished, but here are some WIP shots. Before I begin, let me just tell you how impressed I am with the drafting on this coat. It is flawless.

Inside-out front, showing the seams.
Inside-out front, showing the seams.

I’m making it using a pre-interfaced mohair bouclé. This is a joy to work with, except for the lint that is everywhere. I’ve gone through about half of a lint roller getting the fuzz off the ironing board, cutting mat and myself. For those who took part in the poll on the Gorgeous Fabrics FB page, the YSL-pink silk charmeuse won by a landslide.

Sleeve with organza interfacing and "cigarette" sleeve head.
Sleeve with organza interfacing and “cigarette” sleeve head.

I took this shot before I put the shoulder pads in. I am using sleeve heads that I got from Susan Khalje. And my friend Thaïs gave me these brilliant vintage shoulder pads. They had belonged to her mother, and they are just the right thickness and shape for this coat.

Groovy, baby!
Groovy, baby!

Here are shots of the front and back as it stands right now:

Front...
Front…

 

... and back
… and back

The lining is about ¾ of the way done. I just have to attach the sleeves and then sew it to the garment. I haven’t decided if I’m going to make bound buttonholes or if I’ll take it to Jonathan in NY when I am there later this month. I’m kind of leaning toward the latter, since the mohair could be rather finicky. The other option I’m mulling over is making bound buttonholes with leather welts. I’ll do some samples and then decide.

So that’s what I’ve been working on. How about you?

Happy sewing!

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10 thoughts on “Work In Progress: Paco Peralta’s Cassock Coat”

  1. I’ve been working (furiously) on an evening gown. Blue duchesse satin with brown lace overlay. The fete is this SUNDAY. Had I ever interlined before – no. Had I ever worked with lace as an overlay before – no. Had I drafted a pattern before – no. But did that stop me? Hell no. It is, I’m quite surprised, looking good. Then, I’ll take a break and do something a little less demanding. Maybe a nice bathrobe. Something I can wear in the dark and not look at every mistake.

    BTW, who is Jonathan? Should I know of this fantastic man?

    1. Jonathan Embroidery in NY’s Garment District. They do great work!
      And good for you on the gown! Grab that bull by the horns. As Jim Blinn of the Jet Propulsion Lab once said, “Brute force is a wonderful methodology.” 😉

  2. The coat looks amazing, lovely fabric too. I was thinking of making up this coat myself so your review is very helpful, I look forward to the second part.

  3. Your coat looks so amazing. I have never tried this brand of pattern. Do they come with instructions? in English? Several times I have gone to Etsy to admire them but have not yet purchased.

    1. Anne, they don’t come with instructions, but they are beautifully drafted, and if you have a good reference book (like Vogue’s or Threads’) you will be good to go. Also, Paco has a blog where he puts tutorials. I can’t remember if there is one for the Cassock Coat, but I haven’t looked yet.

  4. Ann, could I ask you a question regarding construction? I know I should know better having made it up twice but I am still struggling…when you sew together the side front seam to the back pattern piece, do you sew beyond the notch/dot or do you stop at the dot? Whenever I made it I had some issues when attaching the sleeve and I always felt I was doing it wrong…do you have any tips for me? Thanks so much for your help

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