Pattern Review: Liesl & Co. Maritime Top


Pattern Description: From Liesl & Co.’s website, “This simple pull-on top is designed for knit fabrics with a little or a lot of stretch. View A features three-quarter-length sleeves while View B has short sleeves. Both styles include a bateau neck with topstitching detail and simple side vents, as well as a flattering fit.”

I made the ¾ length sleeve version. I will add that this pattern has a dropped shoulder, not obvious from the technical drawing, but clear if you look at the photograph, and obvious once you make it.

Sizing: 0-20. Based on my measurements I made a 10, straight out of the envelope.

Available as a PDF? Yes

Fabric Used: (Sold out, sorry) Striped reversible jersey in blue and white from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course). That’s sold out, but there are lots of alternatives Here.

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff home machine, Juki home serger, Naomi the Naomoto, ironing board, shoulder stand, sleeve board.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needle, scraps of fusible interfacing to stabilize the shoulders, thread. That’s it.

Tips Used during Construction: Pretty much anything by The Pressinatrix. Tips and Tricks for Sewing with Knits.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? It looked like the photo. A little less like the line drawing, which seems to show set in shoulders.

How were the instructions? They seemed good. I didn’t use them except to check the seam allowance and hem depths.

Construction Notes: I have only seen one review of this pattern anywhere online, and the lady who reviewed it noted that she didn’t like the facings and wished she had used bindings instead. Taking that to heart, I made a very simple binding for the neckline, using the reverse of the fabric.
Liesl Maritime Band Front

Liesl Maritime Band Back
If I do it again I’ll draft a band that hugs in a bit better at the shoulders. But this isn’t terrible.

I serged all the seams, and I finished the hems with a double needle.

The stripes on the side seams do match at the notch point. And here you can see the reverse of the fabric. Love it!
The stripes on the side seams do match at the notch point. And here you can see the reverse of the fabric. Love it!

Likes/Dislikes: Based on the measurements – both flat pattern and finished garment, I decided not to do a FBA/dart (the instructions are included in the pattern, thank you Liesl!) just to see how it looked. In retrospect I wish I had done the FBA/dart, and I would do it in the future. I like the fact that this version of a Breton top is bra-friendly. I’m not as wild about the fit. I don’t care for the dropped shoulder, and even with a dart it seems to have more ease than I like in a top like this. But if you like a looser-fitting top and you like a shoulder line that is dropped, then this is a very good choice and an easy garment to sew in just a couple of hours.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Hmmmmm. I doubt I’ll make it again. It’s a decent top. And like I say, it suits a certain style. Don’t get me wrong – it has good bones and it’s good for a lot of folks, but I like the shape of the New Look pattern I made better. Here are pictures on Shelley:

Front
Front
Back
Back

Conclusion: A nice basic, loosely fitted top.
Happy sewing!

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Gorgeous Fabrics

I own an online fabric store, www.GorgeousFabrics.com. The name says it all!

7 thoughts on “Pattern Review: Liesl & Co. Maritime Top”

  1. What is the number of the New Look pattern you made? I’ve been searching for a top like this. Yours looks great! Love the fabric

  2. I agree with you about dropped shoulders. I look infinitely better when the sleeve/shoulder seam sits smartly at the edge of the shoulder.

  3. I’ve made (and blogged) the Maritime top three times now. I really like it, and like the facings. It’s a relaxed and casual style. I feel that the dropped shoulder extends my shoulder line a bit, which I rather like. But three times might be enough for me for a little while! I love the blue/white stripes that you have used.

  4. Hi Ann, I have a t-shirt sleeve head question and you have such a great understanding of about patterns and fit, I think you are the person to ask. Loes Hinse t-shirts have this odd little bunch of fabric at the back of the sleeve, by the sleeve head. I noticed her patterns are shaped a little narrower and the curved part is a little pointier in its shape. Other patterns are not as narrow and the curve is much flatter. Is that what is causing that weird wrinkle? I like everything else about the patterns and want to use them – just avoid that sleeve thing.
    Also, I do not follow her pressing advice!

    1. Thanks for your kind words, Mary! I don’t have that pattern so I hesitate to diagnose it sight unseen. Maybe some of my readers can chime in?

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