Pattern Review: Sewaholic Thurlow

Pattern Description: From Sewaholic’s website – Finally, a modern trouser pattern designed for curvy hips, fuller thighs and a narrow waist! The Thurlow Trousers sit below the waistline, with a slightly flared leg. Pockets in front are subtle slash pockets that won’t add bulk to the hips.

Pattern includes a cute pair of cuffed shorts as well as full-length pants. Wear the shorts cuffed or un-cuffed, with an optional grosgrain ribbon belt.

I made the cuffed shorts.

Sizing: 0 to 16. I made a 10 to start.

Available as a PDF? Yes

Fabric Used: Italian Stretch Linen in Heathery Silver Mink for the main body. Scraps of a great stretch cotton in an Australian aboriginal print that was a gift from Chloe at StyleArc for the pockets and facings.

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff to sew the seams, Juki home serger to finish the seam allowances. Naomi the Naomoto.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needles. Pro Weft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, YKK zipper from ZipperStop, one coconut button that I had in my stash, thread

Tips Used during Construction: Anything by The Pressinatrix, “J” or “L”

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? Excellent. Seriously. I sent a note to Tasia of Sewaholic on Sunday telling her that she has written the best instructions for welt pockets that I have seen in any pattern out there. Period. I think she near about fainted. After all, this big ol’ Blue Meanie isn’t known for effusive praise, but the Thurlow’s welt pocket instructions and draft take something that other pattern companies butcher, and make it crystal clear. Brava, Tasia!!!

Seriously the best welt pocket instructions in pattern land.

The rest of the instructions are also great.

Construction Notes: I am not the target body type for Sewaholic patterns. I’m a two-kids-and-a-certain-age-on-a-swimmer’s-build figure, not a pear shape, so I cut a size 10 and sewed it straight out of the envelope, based on my measurements. It actually runs pretty big on me through the waist. I expected it to be roomy in the hips, but I ended up taking about an inch off the waist. Next time I’ll go down a couple of sizes and adjust from there.

I sewed all the seams with a straight stitch and I finished the seam allowances with a 3-thread wide overlock.

Inside Front

I made one welt pocket then I realized that I needed a bigger pocket in back. I carry my phone in my back pocket and the pocket bags as drafted are too short for my phone, so I lengthened one by about an inch and a half.

The left back pocket (on the right here) will be where I stash my phone

The instructions have you interface both the waistband and the waistband facing. I opted to interface only the waistband. I didn’t think it needed more than that. The linen has a crisp hand on its own.

Waistband inside detail

Likes/Dislikes: I love the instructions, I love the drafting. I need to work on the fit, but that’s not the pattern’s fault. As it is, it will work perfectly for a pair of shorts for summer and vacation (what’s that?). No dislikes.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Absolutely to both! This pattern is beautifully drafted, the instructions are excellent. It’s a real winner! Here are not-very-good shots on Shelley. I can’t promise I’ll get pictures of me in these, because my pasty white legs would probably freak out the camera’s light meter, but maybe I’ll slap some self tanner on and take some pictures. We’ll see.


And the back

Conclusion: Great drafting, great pattern. I haven’t put the belt carriers on the shorts yet. It was really hot in my sewing room and I was getting tired, so I knocked off. I’ll add them tomorrow.

Happy sewing!

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9 thoughts on “Pattern Review: Sewaholic Thurlow”

  1. Hmm, I have several of Sewaholic’s patterns but not this one – because I am NOT a pear shape either. At all. But… such praise for the instructions makes me think I might have a go at this, knowing full well that I will need to do some creative pattern alterations. My waist is anything BUT skinny compared to my hips!

    Just FYI to readers – Tasia is currently having a Canada Day sale – 14.8% off (to celebrate 148 years of Canada) through July 3rd midnight PT. So, this is a pretty good time to buy a pattern if you have been thinking about it.

    1. Forgot to add – put CANADA148YRS in the box where it asks for coupons, etc. That will give you the discount.

  2. I really like how you positioned the lizards on the pocket lining– an awesome detail most people will never see.

    Re: the camera’s light meter freaking out about pasty white things. There are three ways you can get around this, two high-tech, one low-tech:

    (1) Adjust the camera’s exposure compensation. Left to their own devices, cameras generally try to produce an image that’s 18% gray on average (I think that’s what the value is). Adjusting the exposure compensation tells the camera to take a picture which is on average lighter or darker than 18% gray. If you want to take a darker picture overall, so that you don’t overexpose your legs, you can adjust the exposure compensation down from 0 to -1 (or whatever you need– you might have to experiment a bit) so that the camera will take darker pictures in general. You’ll probably have to check the manual to see how you adjust the exposure compensation.

    (2) Turn on exposure bracketing. A variation on (1), since it tells the camera to take several photos at once, each with a different exposure compensation. You’ll probably need to check the camera manual to figure out how to turn this on, and it might ask you what values you want for the bracketing– something like -2, -1, 0 or -1, 0, +1 would be probably be fine.

    (3) The low-tech approach– photograph your legs against a light-colored background. Since cameras typically shoot for a final image that’s 18% gray, if you make sure the image consists almost exclusively of light-colored things, the camera will respond by taking a darker picture. (This has caused me much frustration in the past trying to take close-ups of white fabric.)

  3. Thank you for the review of this pattern. I’m off to order. I’m curious — did you add some length to the shorts? Tasia’s shorts look s-h-o-r-t, too short for my 50-year-old legs, but yours look like a good length. Of course either way it wouldn’t be too much trouble to add a couple inches on my pair. cheers, di

  4. Excellent work on those shorts. You might consider topstitching around the box of the welt pocket and reinforcing the ends with bar tacks. The first time you put your hands into the pocket, they just might rip out. I’m a guy, so my back pockets get a lot of use, you being a female, you may not use them much, but a little detail and strengthening couldn’t hurt.

    1. Great idea, John, thanks! I use my back pocket to hold my cell phone, so it does get a fair amount of use. I like the “cleaner” look of no stitching, but I think you’re right and it would be a good thing to put bar tacks there.

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