Tutorial: How to “Flat Set” a Sleeve

I originally published this as part of a review of a StyleArc pattern, but I figure it will be easier to find in its own post.

How to “Flat Set” a Sleeve
First, sew your bodice front and back pieces together at the shoulders:

Here you can see the sleeve head and the armscye.

You can see here that the notches (I used tailors tacks) line up pretty readily. Lay your sleeve on top of your garment body with right sides together and match up all the markings. I basted the seam here, which is optional. It only adds a few seconds to the construction time and it makes everything lines up perfectly.

You may have to stretch the armscye slightly as you sew to match all the notches.

Then stitch or serge your final seam.

StyleArc uses RTW standard 1/4 inch seams in knits.

Remove the basting, press your seam and then you can sew the side seams.

Ta daaaa!

Setting a sleeve this way takes much less time than the old sew-the-sides-sew-the-underarm-easestitch-and-set-in way. It works really well for knits. It also works pretty well for some stretch fabrics. It doesn’t always work for wovens (I probably wouldn’t use it on a tailored blazer, for instance), but it does for many shirt patterns. Give it a try!

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