Pattern Review: Iconic Patterns Jackie Coat

That’s how I stand, all the time.

Pattern Description: From the website – Add some excitement to your winter wardrobe with this stylish and cozy coat.

Jackie coat looks great with jeans, leggings, short skirts or shorts.

It is very easy to dress up for a special occasion by adding an elbow length gloves.

Okay, yah, right. So what they mean to say is, Loose fitting, A-line hip length coat, with three-quarter length raglan sleeves, bust darts, stand collar, asymmetric closing, single welt pockets and bound button holes.

Sizing: 6-16. I made a 10.

Available as a PDF? Yes. I bought the printed pattern though, because I’m lazy.

Fabric Used: An absolutely gorgeous cashmere in dark green from Gorgeous Fabrics (natch). Sold out, sorry. Lining is dark brown silk habotai (sold out, sorry) for the sleeves and Juliette’s Garden Panel Print Silk for the body and pocket linings. Not sold out – a miracle! No, seriously – I’m not being snarky. I usually don’t get around to sewing fabrics until they have long since sold out. It’s kind of a hazard of duty in my job,

Machines and Tools Used: Pfaff home machine, Naomi the Naomoto.

Needle/Notions Used: Universal 70/10 needle for the coat, 60/8 for the lining. Pro-Weft interfacing (I think since discontinued) for block-fusing the fronts, Pro-Weft Supreme Medium for the facings, sleeve heads and hems. Both from Fashion Sewing Supply. Buttons from Botani in New York.

Tips Used during Construction: Pressing Impressively Without Impressions, and just about anything else by The Pressinatrix, Adding a Bellows “Wind Shield” to Coat Sleeves, Sew from Wide to Narrow.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? So so. Some parts were great. Others, not so much. The general instructions are clear, but the instructions tell you to put the welt against the wrong side of the pocket lining, which ends up with the wrong side of the lining fabric facing in to the pocket:

I don’t really care too much, since no one will see it, but still…

Also, the instructions/illustrations on bagging the lining made no sense to me. I haven’t bagged a lining in a long time, so I went out on the internet and found several tutorials that were much more useful.

Construction Notes: I made a muslin, and the fit was pretty darned good out of the envelope. I don’t get too chuffed about fit on raglan sleeve coats, since I need a lot of ease to fit vests and long sleeved tops underneath. For my taste, the collar was way too high. It cut at a very unflattering place. I took off ½ inch of height and repositioned the buttonhole accordingly. If you have a swan neck, you can probably get away without altering it, but I recommend making a muslin if you are an average human being. I added a sleeve bellows to keep the wind out (have you heard about how cold it is in Boston and how much snow we have? Definitely want to cut the wind). After trying on the coat I opted not to cuff the sleeves. Boston in winter, and I like the longer length on me. It’s more visually pleasing.

I will add a side note here that I practiced my bound buttonholes over and over again, probably 6 times before I made them on my coat. I haven’t made bound buttonholes in a few years, so it’s always a good idea to run it through a few times before embarking on the ‘real thing’.

What was good about the pattern? The drafting is beautiful, this pattern goes together wonderfully. I like the somewhat retro style, which doesn’t tip into costume-land. It really is a lovely pattern.

What was not so good about the pattern? I’m going to be brutally honest. This pattern made a really bad first impression. I paid $26 plus shipping for the paper pattern. For that, I got this:

Are you kidding me?
Putting pattern pieces inside or overlapping other pattern pieces?

For 26 bucks, I do not expect to have to trace off pattern pieces because they overlap or sit inside other pattern pieces. This is not Burda magazine. I didn’t pay for the printed pattern to have to deal with that.

Then there was this:

Runny ink

I iron all my pattern pieces, and the ink on this ran like a son of a gun. I’ve had that happen with StyleArc patterns, too, so I did what I do with those; flipped the pattern pieces over and press them on the wrong side:

They bled onto my Reliable Ironing Board

So I had to put muslin on my board to protect it.

This really p*ssed me off

There’s no excuse for that. By the time I got to this point, I was about ready to throw the pattern into my fireplace. But I went home and thought about it and I really liked the coat, so I decided to soldier on. Then I hit another wall…

The instructions weren’t included. And if you buy a printed pattern, it’s not obvious how to get at them. I wrote to the nice folks at Iconic and asked them to please tell me how to get the instructions, and they were great and got right back to me with a PDF. I’m all for saving paper. I do it myself, but again, for $26, I shouldn’t have to jump through hoops to get the basic parts of the pattern. I was not a happy camper that night, I can tell you.

Another small irritation is that the center fronts are not marked on the pattern, nor are the button placements on the left front. I didn’t think about how much I use those CF guidelines, but not having them there, and not having the button placement to give you an idea, just added to my already simmering annoyance.

After sleeping on it, I made a muslin, which went together beautifully. The fit was good, I made a few minor tweaks, and then I started in on my cashmere. Once I got past the initial problems, the pattern sewed up really well. I used the muslin pieces as my pattern pieces (recommended, both because of the ink issue and because the paper is very heavy).

I made my bound buttonholes using a variation on the method I use for welt pockets.

Not too bad
And I just love those buttons!

Speaking of welt pockets, check out the Topstitching on These Babies.

Those two elements took the most time of the construction

Enough of me jawboning. Here are some shots of the inside and outside:

Front facing, lining, and you can see the sleeve bellows
Here you can see the silk print better
The back…
And the front!

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? No, I will not make it again. It’s a beautiful design and well drafted, but I don’t need more than one. Would I recommend it? Hmmmm, with reservations. While the pattern is good, the little “broken shoelaces” as my father used to call them (bad ink, having to trace because pattern pieces overlap, instructions not included) didn’t give me warm fuzzies. But it is a good pattern.

Conclusion: Good pattern, some things about execution could be improved.

Happy sewing!

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Gorgeous Fabrics

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9 thoughts on “Pattern Review: Iconic Patterns Jackie Coat”

  1. Oh my god, how mad would I be if I saw that I bought a paper pattern and would have to trace off pieces! That alone is a no go. Thanks for letting us know.

    1. They are bracelet length: about 3-4 inches above the wrist. You still need long gloves to wear it in the chilly weather, and I won’t be wearing it outside this weekend (more snow, bitter cold), but when things thaw a bit it will be great.

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