After a rather lengthy hiatus, my sewing mojo has returned with a vengeance. Even the McCalls Shorts Debacle hasn’t stopped me. I have lots of ideas of clothes that I want to sew, and I’ve been really inspired by this online subscription I took out to a magazine aggregator. Suddenly I get to read all sorts of fashion magazines on my iPad before I go to sleep: Vogue, Bazaar, InStyle, W, More, Lucky, Allure, Self… The list goes on (and it also includes Entertainment Weekly and People, among others, for my guilty pleasure reading). It provides plenty of inspiration. It has also rekindled my desire to sew with wovens. I’ve been sewing tons of knits lately, because I love them and they are what I live in. At work, my uniform is usually jeans, a knit top, a jacket, and either sneakers or high heels, depending on what I’m doing that day. I love my uniform, but I want to add a little diversity. So for the late summer/early fall, I hope to sew up some blouses. The first one I’m working on is the StyleArc Brenda.
The Brenda is a long sleeved, darted blouse with gathering at the bustline. There are some doppelgängers out there in pattern land, but I really like StyleArc for their shoulder and upper-chest draft. So I pulled out my copy of the pattern (size 10, my usual) and cut out a muslin.
Since I’ve been working mostly with knits recently, it’s crucial to make a muslin of any garment that is made of woven fabric and reasonably closely fitted. And boy, I’m glad I did. I know that at my age, I will need to make changes to just about any pattern to get the fit I want. And this is no exception. I made the muslin straight from the pattern and discovered a few things that needed to be changed. First off, even though every StyleArc pattern I’ve made in size 10 fits me perfectly across the shoulders and upper chest/back, they don’t all fit the same elsewhere. Brenda is drafted for a much smaller person than I through the front ribcage. Here’s a picture of the original muslin on Shelley.
Shelley is a Wolf Size 6 dressform. Much as I wish I looked like Shelley, two kids, yumpty yump years and one bout of breast cancer later, I’m more like a Wolf size 10. As a side note, this December is (touch wood) my 5-year diagnosis anniversary. And my birthday is in December. Maybe I’ll save up and treat myself to a custom Wolf form. But I digress…
So I’m about two sizes bigger than Shelley. You can see that the muslin fits her pretty well, with not a lot of extra ease. On me, it sits more like this:
It fits perfectly through the back, and the side seams are in exactly the right place. It’s just the front that needs fixing. I’m not going to subject you to a picture of it on me in this iteration. That would be too embarrassing. One other thing to notice is that the bust darts come up WAY too high. They are at bust apex level, even on Shelley, who doesn’t have to worry about gravity.
Also, If you look at the original muslin, the dart was positioned about 2 inches outside of where my bust apex (the little x’s) points are. So I decided to slice and dice. When I was a kid I used to think I wanted to be a surgeon – well, this is surgery, minus the blood and need to learn organic chemistry, right? Here’s the pattern after I made my initial incisions, but before I did all the resectioning:
Here it is once I got done with it:
Here’s the revised muslin on Shelley: much better fit for my real body.
There is still a little work that needs to be done. I need to add just a wee bit more room at the bust, but that’s easy now. I’ll also add the sleeves to the muslin tomorrow to check them out. Once I do that, hopefully I’ll be able to whip this up in my fashion fabric (a daisy print cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics) quickly and have a new blouse.
Tomorrow I’ll show you some of the construction methods that I use when I make muslins in general. But that’s enough for tonight. DH just put a Quentin Tarantino movie on.