Muslin for the Puppy Dress

… or “Un-Petite-ing a Petite Pattern”

I made the first muslin for the puppy dress last weekend, and it required a few adjustments. First, I added about an inch to the torso length, then I did a full bust adjustment. This is what the pattern looked like when I’d finished slicing and dicing:

Adjusted Bodice

Rather than futz with floppy and fragile pattern pieces, I just decided to trace off the adjusted pattern to a new piece of paper.
Adjusted Bodice Traceoff

When I make standard (non-petite) patterns, I often have to do a swayback adjustment. I didn’t need that here. The back length is perfect for me. But I did have to adjust the side back piece to match up to the adjusted front torso length:

Sliced to match up to the front

Sliced to match up to the front

I sliced it open to add length at the side front seam, tapering to nothing at the side back.

Here you can see the front and back of the second muslin:





After trying it on, I added darts to the back and back facing, to get it to lay better against my shoulders. I have pretty erect posture most of the time, but I find that adding darts makes a big difference,even for me.

Darts in the back pieces

Darts in the back pieces

In the picture on the model (who has no boobs), the dress is very sweet looking. On me, I noticed two things. First, the dress looks very “Joan Holloway”, which I rather like. Second, the bra I wear with this dress makes a HUGE difference. I was wearing a tee-shirt bra when I first tried it on, and I didn’t like the fit, so I changed to one that hoists the girls higher and closer together. That will be the bra I wear with this dress from now on.

And speaking of bras, if you haven’t already read it, go Read This Post. Now. It’s just as important as ever.

I’m happy with the fit of the muslin, so next step is to cut into my puppy silk and lining habotai. More soon!

Happy sewing!

8 thoughts on “Muslin for the Puppy Dress”

  1. Phyllis says:

    Oh yes, it’s coming together nicely! That dress will be so fun to wear.

  2. suzanne mcdonald says:

    oooh! I like! Very elegant. Can’t wait to see the finished version. Keep posting, as I’m living vicariously (just packed my sewing room up for a multi-state move, at least 30-40 days before I see everything again…)

  3. Mardel says:

    Oh, this looks so much better!

  4. QSSSue says:

    Looking good – excited to see the final version!

  5. Renee says:

    I thought you hadn’t blogged in months. But, somehow, your feed never came over to my feedly when I stopped with Google Reader!

    1. Gorgeous Fabrics says:

      Hey Renee!
      One of the side effects of moving off our old website to the new one was it screwed up the readers, so I no longer show up on the old feeds. I’m glad you found me again!

  6. This isn’t a reply (although the dress looks like it will be great)
    Could you tell me what you best/favorite seam finish is for chiffon?
    I am making a prom dress for my daughter.

    1. Gorgeous Fabrics says:

      Well Trish, my favorite seam finish for chiffon is to run screaming from the room.

      However, if you really are a glutton for punishment since you are a much more loving mom than I, I would recommend either a hand-rolled hem, if you have time, or – and this is what I would do – use a rolled hem on a serger. I’ve done this successfully for bridesmaids and prom dresses. Test on a scrap first so you can adjust the differential feed and stitch length to your satisfaction. Chiffon has a lot of give on the cross-grain, so testing out on scraps through the machine a few times will make sure you get the result your looking for. And I hope your daughter gives you the trophy for Prom-Mom-Wonder-Woman!

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