The most crucial step in making a Marfy pattern, if you ask me, is the muslin. Okay, that’s one of the most crucial steps in making any new pattern, if you ask me. But it’s really critical with Marfy, because you don’t have instructions, and you only have the pattern illustrations to go from. When you’re faced with this:
Allowing yourself a test run in muslin is very helpful. Now, the good news about Marfy’s patterns is that they are beautifully drafted. They don’t give you instructions, but they give you match points, and the patterns go together with no fuss. Yes, you need to know what you’re doing. Yes, you need to be patient (this isn’t a calico A-line dress we’re making, after all). But more than that, you need to be adventurous, and willing to step off that 10 meter platform believing that Marfy put in the pool to catch you. And they did. As long as you take it low and slow, you’ll get gratifying results.
Eh, enough of my yammering. Let’s take a look at the muslin and comment on it, shall we?
First thing to note is that I used our 65 inch muslin for my test garment. It’s the best out there, period and end of statement. I made the entire coat, including the facings. I didn’t make a lining (I have to draft those pieces), but I made the outer pieces, and I attached the belts, pockets (I didn’t trim the SAs), tabs and epaulets, so I could get a good look at the finished proportions. So far mostly so good. Now to the back…
Here’s something interesting. The sleeve cape pieces are longer than the back cape piece, by about an inch and a quarter. If you look at the pattern illustration, those pieces are the same length. So I’ll adjust the length of the back to be the same as the sleeves.
This for me is the selling point of the entire coat. Well, this with the cape. The proportion on the chest flap is perfect.
From the pattern illustration, the coat looks like it’s designed to be at or slightly above the knee. I’m 5’6″, and the coat is more like just below the knee on me. The longer version is more formal. I pinned the hem up about 5 inches. The shorter version is more sassy. I have a pair of kick-a** boots that I want to wear with this, and I think they would look better with the shorter version. I’ll leave it on Shelley while I pretreat the red wool, then I’ll try it on with the boots and see which I prefer.
The best news about this pattern is that it fits me exactly the way I want it to, straight out of the envelope. That almost never happens any more, woot woot! I put it on over my sweater today and it felt great. So the next step will be to make the few changes to the pattern, pretreat my wool and then get going on the final version. More to come…