First Up for Marfy 3201 -the Muslin

This one will take a while...

This one will take a while…

The first thing to do with any Marfy pattern is to make a muslin. I traced the pattern pieces onto muslin using a Clover double tracing wheel and, as Susan Khalje likes to call it, toxic waxed tracing carbon that I bought ages ago at the FIT bookstore.

Marfy patterns don’t include seam allowances or hem allowances, so you have to add them. For the purposes of this coat, I made the seam allowances about an inch wide. The exception is on the collar pieces and the edges of the shoulder flap. Those are 1/2 inch allowances. The hem allowances are an inch and a quarter. Before tracing the pieces that need to be cut on the fold, I decided to copy them onto tracing paper and make a complete pattern piece.

I’ll cut out the belt, epaulet and pocket pattern pieces tomorrow. While I am most concerned with the fit on this coat, I also want to check the proportions, so it’s critical to include the little design details in the muslin this time. The pocket pieces on the coat as designed are shaped like parentheses. I’ve already decided that I don’t care for that detail. It’s not very Burberry, which the rest of the coat is, and if you look at it, the coat doesn’t benefit from that little curlicue. Well, in my opinion anyway. And since I’m the one who’s going to wear it, I’ll change it to a more au courant Burberry Prorsum-style rectangular pocket flap.

So that’s where it stands. Phyllis is coming up tomorrow to spend the day sewing, and I figure I’ll try to get the bulk of the muslin sewn while she is here to eyeball it with me. She’s got a great eye for proportion and I want to take advantage of that. It’s great to have a sewing buddy! I’ll post more later as the coat progresses. It’s getting chilly here, and I would love to have this done before the holidays.

Happy sewing!

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