I got several questions about the “L” crotch curve in my post about the
Crime Against Humanity McCalls 6707 Fashion Star Capris. Here’s a little more information on it. I’ve sewn pants for years and years, and while they looked okay, I never was really happy with them. They always seemed rather baggy. I’ve never had a lot of junk in the trunk, but neither am I a flatbottom boat. I figured that I just had to put up with it, because none of the pattern fitting guides at the time had any solutions that worked for me.
Then one day, I took a fitting class with the amazing, amusing and astounding teacher Cynthia Guffey. One of the things she did was use a flexible ruler to show us the curvature of our hinder ends. Well huh, I guess all that time in spinning class has had an effect. Let me show you a couple of pictures. Let’s take a gander at a current Vogue pattern, V8886.
Notice the bagginess at the back crotch? It tells me there is extra fabric there. Now look at the pattern piece for the back:
It has a gently sloping curve, shaped like the letter J. Keep in mind that the flat fabric will make a 90 degree turn just below the double notch on this pattern, as it heads in between the legs to meet up with the front leg piece, so your bum doesn’t necessarily look like the flat pattern. Now let me show you what the actual curve of my kiester looks like overlaid on the pattern piece at the crotch line:
You can see that the my curve is far sharper than the curve in the pattern – more like a capital L. If I cut out the pattern as-is, I get a bunch of extra fabric hanging under my derriere, kind of like the model in the picture. It’s not attractive, and it’s not very comfortable. But by scooping out some of that excess to more closely match my anatomy, I’ve eliminated that problem. Here’s the adjusted pattern piece from my McCalls 6707 pattern, overlaid on the Vogue. The actual cutting line for the McCalls is in pink.
I don’t have a picture of me in them from the back, but they conform to the line of moi quite well.
To give you one more picture, since it’s worth way more roughly 500 words I have here, here is a pair of old, pre-L pants that I made, next to the (post-L) McCalls 6707, so you can see the difference in the completed pants.
This adjustment is pretty easy to make. If you have a fitting buddy and a flexible ruler (available at most art supply, crafts and sewing stores), you can see what your own crotch line is: J, L or in-between, which you can transfer to a pants pattern. Try it on a muslin and see what you think of your rear view.
HTH, and happy sewing!