The Advantage of Single Layer Layout, and Pattern Review – StyleArc Samantha Top

Today was one of those days where there was nothing much to do, waiting for other things to happen, if you get my meaning. So I took advantage of the free time to sew myself another StyleArc pattern. This time it was the Samantha top. I’ve had it in my stash for quite some time. I even started making it several months back, but I realized after cutting out the front and back, that I didn’t have enough fabric for the sleeves. Today, that wasn’t a problem. So I made it up, using the striped jersey from which I made my Laura Knit Cardi. Working with the stripes, I did something that is second nature to me, but I don’t think I’ve really shared on my blog: the single layer layout.

It’s exactly what it sounds like. Rather than folding your fabric in half and laying your pattern piece on the doubled layer, you lay it out one piece at a time.

Single Layer = Control

This gives you the ultimate control over the layout of your pattern, and it is critical when working with stripes (as I did here), plaids, or panel prints. Yes, it takes a little longer, but the results are worth every second.

Beautifully mirrored sleeves patterns, thanks to single-layer layout.


Oh, and the other thing about single-layer layout? It saves fabric – big time. In many cases, I have been able to shave a yard off the recommended fabric allowances by the Big 4.

If you have a pattern piece that is meant to be cut on the fold, so you only have a half-piece, what I do is fold a piece of tracing paper and cut the pattern out along the fold, giving me a full piece. I then use that to cut my fabric. The good news is that in all the StyleArc patterns that I have used – and this is standard in all the industrial patterns that I have sewn for designers when I made samples – they give you full pattern pieces for each garment, so you don’t need to futz around with that. And as far as the pattern itself…

Pattern Description: From the website, “Good basic raglan sleeve knit top featuring boat shaped neck”. My additions: close-fitted top with wide neckline, long sleeves and neckline binding.

Sizing: 6-18. I made a 10

Fabric Used: Storied Stripe Rayon Jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 70/10 needle, polyester cone thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Press that Bad Mamma Jamma!

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? I didn’t use them. This top is beautifully drafted, and it sews up without a hitch.

Construction Notes: I raised the neckline one inch. It’s pretty open at the neck – enough to not be bra-friendly. Even with the addition, it’s still pretty open, as you can see below. That’s not a criticism – just an observation. I adjusted the neckline binding by taking off 2 inches at the CB seam.

Likes/Dislikes: Love this top!

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes, and yes.

Conclusion: A great basic. Here are some pictures on Shelley.

On its own…
Twin Set!

Happy sewing!

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11 thoughts on “The Advantage of Single Layer Layout, and Pattern Review – StyleArc Samantha Top”

  1. After watching Susan Khaljies Couture Dress Course on Craftsy I started doing this, and I found it so much easier, I was using the muslin pieces I’ve previously made. Its much easier to control 1 layer of fabric and ensure the grainlines are straight than having two layers. This weekend I cut out a top using 2 layers and this fabric is particularly unstable and fluid so it was a nightmare and reinforced to me how much easier it is to use 1 layer. I’m always impressed with Style Arcs patterns but I think the single size pattern is what puts me off having only known multisized patterns and being a bottom heavy girl I tend to grade out the lower halves and use the larger sizes to accomodate my hips/butt!

  2. I’d love to see this top on you. I’ve seriously considered it bit was concerned about the width of the neckline. I will definitely order the cardigan after seeing yours. Thanks.

    1. Nancy, I wore it yesterday to a wake. Without the cardi over it, you can see my bra straps. But together they look very chic and event-appropriate. I’ll try to get a picture at some point soon.

  3. Beautiful job. I’d not considered single layer layout for anything but plaids or stripes. An intriguing notion. Thanks for the new idea.

  4. Nice job on the twin set. I looked up the pattern but I an now used to mutisized patterns how much long did it take to tweak the pattern being that it is not mutlisized ??

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